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From Chief Joseph, the Nez Perce by Edmond S. Meany, 1901.

The week beginning with June 21, 1901, was devoted by the writer to a trip to Nespilem, on the Colville Indian Reservation, State of Washington, for the purpose of visiting Chief Joseph and his surviving warriors and to learn something of their present conditions. To get there from Spokane, Washington, one should take the Washington Central train to Wilbur and from there an all day’s ride with a team crossing the Columbia River on a cable ferry.

The Colville Reservation has been cut in two. The Government has thus far neglected to pay the Indians the $1,500,000 agreed upon for the northern half. The southern half has also been thrown open for mineral entries and the familiar haunts and pasture lands of the Indians are now being overrun by a constant stream of prospectors. The writer visited one mining camp within two miles of Chief Joseph's tepee where the herds of Indian ponies are startled twice a day by the blasting of the rocks. At the sub-agency are two stores where these miners procure supplies.

The last census shows that there were in 1900 one hundred and twenty-seven of Chief Joseph’s band at Nespilem as follows:

Males above 18 years of age: 32

Males under 18 years of age: 22

Females above 14 years of age: 53

Females under 14 years of age: 20

Total: 127

There are also on this reservation two hundred and ninety-two of Moses' band of Columbians and five hundred and seventy-five listed as Okanogans.

Chief Moses of the Columbians had been located on the Nespilem before Chief Joseph's band was brought there. He had gone to Washington City and secured many favors for his people such as a saw-mill, grist-mill, physician, blacksmith and school and a yearly salary for himself of one thousand dollars. He also procured certain allowances of agricultural implements.

Chief Joseph got no salary but the Government has issued his people regular rations of food, clothes and agricultural implements. From this fact and from the fact that he and the members of his band are supposed to ask permission if they wish to leave the reservation it is construed that Joseph's band are still practically prisoners of war.

The best agriculturalists in this vicinity are the remnants of the original Nespilams, who first occupied the land. They live in frame houses, till the soil, and with unusual pride, refuse to receive aid from the Government. If they get a reaper from the Government store-house they insist on paying for it in hay or labor.

Joseph's band, on the other hand, being supplied with everything they need, do not progress in the industrial activities. It is claimed that this idleness is a bad influence on the other Indians and the agents have been asking the Government to curtail and finally discontinue all rations to the Nez Perces.

In order to get lumber for houses, barns or other purposes, the Indians go to the hills and cut the logs, which they haul to the mill. Then they assist the Government sawyer to cut the logs into whatever shape is desired. They mark their own logs and keep track of all the details carrying the finished product to their homes.

The Government built for Chief Joseph a small, rough-board, battened house and a barn on the farm he selected about four miles from the sub-agency. The Chief will not live in his house and the roof of his barn is broken in. He prefers to live in the traditional tepee, winter and summer, and this tepee he has pitched near the sub-agency so he can be near his people and the school.

The teacher of the school, Barnett Stillwell, who has been there for four years, says that Chief Joseph has manifested great interest in the children. He often visits the school, at which times the Indian children would remain almost motionless. On several occasions he administered light punishment to some of the little ones, who were not progressing to suit him.

Not far from the school house is the Nez Perce burial ground. The head-stones consist of poles set In the ground with bells or feathers ornamenting the tops. It forms a weird picture of mingled savagery and civilization. Chief Joseph presides at every Nez Perce funeral with great and solemn dignity.

The interior of Chief Joseph's tepee presents a model appearance of neatness. Indian mats cover the floor and in huge rolls around the edge are buffalo robes now quite scarce among the Indians, and blankets. From one of these rolls the Chief brought a small leather trunk In which were bundles of letters he had received from white men, and photographs of Indian and white friends. He knew each face and seemed glad to call up memories of his friends and relatives. At the bottom of his trunk were the eagle hat and saddle robe with which his high rank is proclaimed on all gala days.

The Indians were making great preparations for the approaching Fourth of July when they would have a celebration extending over one or two weeks. Joseph would not allow his picture to be taken until that time when his wardrobe would be in better condition for such an important operation. The Indians of this whole region show their respect for Chief Joseph by according him, without any questioning, the principal place of honor on all great festivals or celebrations.

Chief Moses had a great reputation among the Indians and whites of this section but he was dissipated. The Indians will manage at times to get liquor and Moses brought on his own death by a protracted spree. Chief Joseph never drinks intoxicants. "Nica halo bottlum", as he puts it in Chinook.

Moses had two wives who survive him. Joseph is now the only Indian on the reservation v/ho has two wives. His wives are Wa-win-te-pi-ksat, aged forty-six, and I-a-tu-ton-my, aged thirty-nine. Joseph's Nez Perce name is Hin-raah-too-Yah-lat-kekht meaning "Thunder rolling in the mountains."

He claims that he is fifty-three years old but General Howard estimated his age at thirty-seven at the time of his war, which would make him sixty-one years old now.

Henry M. Steele, the sub-agent at Nespilem, says that Joseph's wives do all the work about the home and always call for the rations on issue day. He says that Joseph is appealed to when there are harnesses or other such goods to give out to the "Nez Perces. The Chief will designate the ones to be thus favored but he usually begins the process by claiming one of the articles for himself.

On our visit to the tepee, the writer saw Joseph unharnessing his team and on another day he was saddling a pony. The sub-agent said on both occasions that it was unusual. The wives or his helpers usually did such things for him.

The Government has built for Joseph two small "ietas" houses in which are kept his many precious properties. In one are four rifles. One of these is old and worn. Joseph says it is the one he carried through the war. Here is also soon nicely framed the certificate of Chief Joseph's appointment as an aid in the New York parade at the dedication of the Grant memorial monument on April 27, 1897. On that occasion he marched side by side with his friend Buffalo Bill.

Joseph was asked what Indian chief he considered the greatest and he answered that he thought his father, also a Chief Joseph, was the greatest. To another question he said he thought his brother Oll’icutt was the next greatest chief.

Joseph has had nine children, five girls and four boys, but they are all dead. One died since living at Nespilem, two died in Indian Territory and the rest died in Idaho. One daughter grew to womanhood and was married. He seems especially fond of her memory and tells what a good girl she was while showing her picture. On the back of this tin-type picture is written "for Chief Joseph from his loving Daughter Sarah Moses."

Bereft of his children the Chief now leads a quiet life sustained by the Government against whose authority he waged a long and bitter warfare. His last effort to regain the Wallowa Valley has been investigated by Inspector James McLaughlin who has reported strongly against the request. But Joseph still longs for that old home the "Valley of Winding Waters." In a dictated letter to the writer, dated at Nespilem, May 27, 1901, he says: "My old home is in the Wallowa Valley and I want to go back there to live. My father and mother are buried there. If the Government would only give me a small piece of land for my people in the Wallowa Valley, with a teacher, that is all I would ask."

The white people in Wallowa Valley have named one of their towns Joseph and their newspaper was called Chieftain but there the sentiment ends. They enter strong protest when it is talked of sending any of the Nez Perces back to that home of their forefathers.

Meany, Edmond S. Chief Joseph, the Nez Perce. University of Wisconsin, 1901.

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