Hamely Fare
"What though on hamely fare we dine" has been sung and applauded at countless Burns suppers by thousands who were not dining on hamely fare, and who had no personal…
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“Hamely Fare,” from Scottish Life and Character, by William Sanderson, 1914.
"What though on hamely fare we dine" has been sung and applauded at countless Burns suppers by thousands who were not dining on hamely fare, and who had no personal experience of a limited larder, though they might admire the nobility of the song from which the words are quoted.
In these days, when the fruits of other climes find their way even into remote villages, it is very difficult for the present generation to imagine the simple fare which pleased our fathers. Among the staple foods of the Scottish peasants may be mentioned porridge, kail, potatoes, oatcakes, pease bannocks, barley scones and wheaten flour scones, sowans, milk, butter and cheese. The first-mentioned has been immortalised by Burns in "Halesome parritch, chief o' Scotia's food," which a German poet by a curious mistranslation has rendered, "A partridge as is pleasing to the Scots."
"Kail" was a thick, nourishing broth composed of common vegetables, including the kail or curly green. Both of these dishes are still well known at the present day, but "sowans," once extensively used in Scotland, is now rarely seen. It is made from the husks of oats, which contain much farinaceous matter. These are soaked in water for several days until the whole turns sour, when the liquid is poured off and boiled till it thickens.
This national dish could be made very palatable, and one Englishman was so impressed with this that on his return to the South he thus described to his friends this marvel of Scottish cookery: "The lady of the house boiled some dirty water in a pan, and by the blessing of God it came out a fine pudding."
Oatmeal brose was another favourite dish, and had the great advantage of requiring no cooking, the pouring of hot water on the raw meal being the whole process. To the Southern who does not understand the delights of "brose and butter," the dish may seem barbaric, and be an ample justification of Dr Johnson's dictionary definition of "oats." But even at the present day there are thousands of Scots who prefer the "bowl o' brose" to much more elaborate dishes. While a too frequent use of oatmeal had a heating effect upon the blood, the evil could be neutralised by another dish pease-meal brose which was common in some parts of Scotland. The nourishing and beautifying qualities of this dish were probably known to the "three Hebrew youths" in ancient Babylon, who would doubtless be well acquainted with pulse in such a palatable form.
The corn from which the oatmeal was prepared was ground at the nearest mill, but in some inaccessible spots the use of the hand-querns was not unknown. These "primeval mills of the world" are not very numerous in Scotland, owing to the decree of Alexander III and subsequent legislation. The object of such measures was to force the people to take their grain to the mills which had been erected all over the country, and to accomplish this it was decided to render the use of hand-mills or querns illegal. "Nae man," says the decree, "sail presume to grind quekit, maish-lock, or rye, hand-mylne, except he be compelled by storme, or bein lack of mills, quihilk soulde grinde the samen; and in this case, gif a man grindes at hand-mylnes, he sail gif the threllin measure as milture; gif any man contra veins this, our proclamation, he sail tyne his mill perpetuallie."
In many districts the querns were as keenly sought after and destroyed by the millers and their agents as private stills were by the Excise officers at a much later date. But it is not difficult for the people to evade what they consider to be an unjust law, and so not a few of the precious "hand-mylnes" were successfully hidden, only to be secretly produced and used or lent out as occasion demanded. The importance of querns was recognised by the Israelites, who were not allowed to seize them for debt, the command being, "No man shall take the upper or the lower millstone to pledge: for he taketh the man's life to pledge."
The quern grinding was preceded by the heating of the corn in an iron pot, or by some similar contrivance, and as soon as the grain was crisp enough the two stones were brought into use. Two women, who sat facing each other on the ground, generally acted as millers. Into the side of the upper stone, which had a hole in the centre, a wooden handle was fixed, and the stone was turned by means of this handle being pushed from one to the other, the corn being poured from time to time into the hole at the top. The monotonous action was generally accompanied by a low crooning song or quern-lilt, which suggests the customs of Eastern women, who "warbled as they ground the parched corn."
Although butcher meat was much cheaper than now, it was only used at long intervals in many households, and so the Scots were almost vegetarians. Tea was used secretly, and the "tea-caddy" was hidden more carefully than the decanter is nowadays. The granny might be excused for finding comfort in the teacup, but woe betide the peasant's wife who was discovered indulging in the amber liquid! the tongue of scandal would wag freely regarding her extravagant weakness.
Many of the food utensils were made of wood, and the bicker-maker was a recognised calling. The "luggies" used by the bairns were of very neat construction, and resembled a toy tub with one of the staves made double length, so as to form a handle. They were frequently constructed with a double bottom, to admit of the insertion of some small pebbles, which produced a rattling sound when the luggie was shaken by the delighted bairn who owned it.
Metal spoons were seldom used, so the manufacture of horn ones was quite an extensive industry. These spoons, when new, were not at all unpleasant to the mouth, but after they had been in use for some time, their rough edges did not add to the pleasures of the table. Occasionally the handle would become twisted, which rendered the operation of supping rather difficult. One such spoon I remember, which was only used when an extra number sat down to dinner. It had a very decided twist, and was generally reserved for one of the family who knew how to use it. If it chanced, however, to fall into the hands of a stranger, he would be surprised to find that his first spoonful of kail did not reach its proper destination, but flowed along the grooved part of the handle and discharged itself from the end.
There can be no doubt that the strength and endurance of the Scots may be traced in some degree to the few simple, nourishing foods which formed the common fare of the people for so many generations. Even in these days of bewildering variety in viands and cookery, homely fare is not to be despised, and they are wise parents who endow their children with the rich inheritance of simple tastes.
The peasant when he home returns,
Aweary with his constant toil,
Beholds upon his table spread
The fruits drawn from a stubborn soil.
The simple feast brings health and joy
For sweet contentment lingers there -
And pampered palates might desire
His relish for the homely fare.
Sanderson, William. Scottish Life and Character. Adam and Charles Black, 1914.
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