Finnish Customs, 1909
Personal cleanliness seems to take first place with the Finns; therefore the most important building of every country-house and farmstead is the bath-house.
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“Characteristics and Customs” from Peeps at Many Lands: Finland by M. Pearson Thomson, 1909
Personal cleanliness seems to take first place with the Finns; therefore the most important building of every country-house and farmstead is the bath-house. This is built apart from the dwelling-house, of pine-logs, on a foundation of stones and moss, with a thatched or wooden, moss-covered roof. The interior of this building is peculiar, having on one side a curious, stove-like arrangement, built round with large, loose stones; on the other side a series of wooden platforms, one above another, or, as an alternative, canvas hammocks are used. These platforms and hammocks are for the bathers to lie upon.
Every morning in the summer, and every Saturday in winter, a fire of wood is lighted in the stove; then, when the stones are hot, water is thrown on them to make the steam. This is done at intervals during the day, while the fire is kept going merrily, and by evening the Finnish sauna is ready. So hot is this vapour-bath that it would be intolerable to English people, but Finns enjoy it perhaps more than anything else. In the evening the whole household marches into the sauna, lie on the platforms, and beat themselves with bunches of little birch-twigs, to encourage perspiration and stimulate the circulation. These bath-whisks are made of the birch-twigs which are gathered in the early summer, when the leaves are soft. They are steeped in hot water before use, and this makes them pliable and fragrant; so the perfume of the bath-house is very invigorating when many little whisks are going at once. The floor is covered with clean straw, on which the children delight in dancing, whipping each other the while with their aromatic birch-rods! When they have perspired sufficiently, they sit in turn on a chair, and are washed down by a woman, who also gives them a little massage.
Then helter-skelter for the lake, into which they plunge, swimming about for cool refreshment, or, in winter, when the lake is frozen, they roll themselves in the snow! I dare say you would think this part of the performance anything but inviting. The little Finn, however, thinks it glorious fun! This bath is also used medicinally. In cases of fever or illness it is most beneficial, and considered by some to be an antidote for every ill. In town-houses the bath-room is much the same as ours, except that the boiler is heated by a stove in the room. Plenty of public baths exist, which are much patronized, as no Finn, however poor, would forgo his Saturday bath; nor does he think he is capable of washing himself, so a bath-woman is a necessity to him. She scrubs him down with soft brush and soap in place of the fragrant birch-twigs!
Although with the Finlanders cleanliness seems to come first, their religious life is not neglected. The Finns still keep up many old traditions and customs to which they are attached. When parting with friends, they always give flowers, and fellow-travellers benefit by these pretty bouquets, for their scent pervades boat and train. Midsummer is their greatest festival, as well as the most curious. Great branches of birch are cut down, and the houses, inside and out, are decorated liberally with them. In towns the shops and streets are dressed with garlands and birch-boughs hung from door to door, as well as from the lamp-posts. No one thinks of sleep, and darkness does not come to remind them of it. On this the 24th day of June—St. John the Baptist’s Day—the kokko fires are lighted on every hill-top, island, lake-side, and even on the lake itself, on rafts or floats; every farmstead and country-house must have a huge bonfire on its highest ground—the bigger the better.
This is an old pagan custom, and these “Baal” fires are lighted in honour of the sun—the miracle-worker of the farmer. The people sing and dance around the fires, keeping them blazing for twenty-four hours, though they show but little brilliancy, because of the continuous daylight. In this way? and by feasting, story-telling, and other amusements, the time is passed. The festive meal on this occasion consists of creamy soup, cold salmon, and every kind of sweet cake.
Lovers particularly enjoy this festival, and many betrothals take place. They go off in parties in boats, or wander into the fields, twine different coloured wools round the rye-stems, arranging the colours to indicate joy or sorrow, love or hate; then before harvest-time they revisit the fields, look for their marked rye-stalks, and whichever is the highest, whether “love” or “hate,” “joy” or “sorrow,” so will their fortune be till next Midsummer’s Day. May Day is also a festival to welcome the beginning of summer. Bands begin playing early in the morning, and the streets are crowded with pleasure-seekers. The May Day drink of mjӧdd, also the sweet cake called strupa, are given freely to all.
The last Tuesday in February is a holiday for the boys and girls, who have picnics, starting off on skis and skates for a day’s outing. Their meal on this occasion consists of hot milk and buns spread with almond-paste. On the return in the evening they have a carnival or masked ball.
On birthdays, or “name-days,” the breakfast-table is beautifully decorated with flowers in summer, leaves and berries in winter, by the children of the house, who always try to find new ideas for their decorations. The chair of the birthday child is dressed with birch-boughs; if it is a parent’s name-day, then the porch of the house is festooned with birch-branches as well. There are also many interesting Christmas customs. On Christmas Eve corn and food are spread on the snow for the birds and wild animals, for it is believed that these creatures can speak on this one night in the year! If you listen intently behind the closed doors, you will be able to understand what they say, and find out their views of life in general and man in particular, so the Finns think. Another custom on this Eve is to wrap the presents securely in paper, with the name of the recipient on them accompanied by a verse, and these are flung through the door of the sitting-room where the family is gathered. Each name is called as the parcel is thrown. Even the dog is not forgotten, a piece of meat being wrapped up for him, and when his name is called, he runs for his packet, tearing it open, and devouring it with glee. Supper consists of codfish and rice-porridge on this night.
On New Year’s Eve the young men and maidens try to obtain a glimpse into the future by melting lead in a big spoon over the wood embers in the stove. When melted, it is poured into a pail of cold water, and in the grotesque figures produced the future may be read. An almond is also hidden in the rice-porridge, and he or she who finds it will be married before the end of the year.
The Finns are very hospitable and kind, but seem rather inquisitive, though this may be due to their innate love of progress. They never willingly lose an opportunity of improvement, and they realize that much knowledge may be gained by questioning strangers. It is customary for all men and boys to wear a sheathed knife, called a pukko, which is worn hanging from a belt round the waist. This is used as a pocket-knife, its leather sheath being often very prettily ornamented with various patterns in gilding and colour, and the end always tipped with brass.
The Finns hold the mountain-ash, or rowan-tree, sacred. The oak, too, is treasured—most likely because it is difficult to grow in Finland. The twigs of juniper-trees are burned in the houses in the evening, to get rid of mosquitoes and other insects. The children often have to walk many miles to find these twigs, as they only grow on clay soil.
Finns generally dine at four o’clock, so if you would pay a call on a friend you must do so between the hours of twelve and three. They are always pleased to see you, and while you chat you are given refreshment, consisting of coffee and cakes, or a delicious fruit like a large melon, of a deep pink colour inside, with black seeds, together with a tiny glass of home-made wine. This fruit is grown in the Crimea, is very luscious, and of a delicate flavour, and much appreciated in Finland.
The sofa in a Finnish drawing-room is reserved for honoured and married lady guests, the right-hand corner being given to the lady of highest rank present. Nothing would induce a young maiden to occupy a seat on the sofa, lest she should in consequence bring upon herself the ill-luck of spinsterhood for life!
Thomson, M. Pearson. Peeps at Many Lands: Finland. Adam & Charles Black, 1909.
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