Fynes Moryson Visits Scotland, 1598
English scholar and veteran traveler Fynes Moryson describes his stay in Scotland. His work is mostly written in old English.
Note: This article has been excerpted from a larger work in the public domain and shared here due to its historical value. It may contain outdated ideas and language that do not reflect TOTA’s opinions and beliefs.
Fynes Moryson
From Early Travellers in Scotland by Peter Hume Brown, 1891.
FYNES MORYSON gives the following account of himself: "Being a student of Peter-house, in Cambridge, and entered the eighteenth yeere of my age, I tooke the degree of Bachelor of Arts, and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said Colledge by Queene Elizabeths Mandat. Three yeers expired from my first degree taken in the Universitie I commenced Master of Arts, and within a yeere after, by the favour of the Master and Fellowes, I was chosen to a vacant place of priviledge to studie the Civill Lawes.
“Then, as well for the ornament of this profession, as out of my innated desire to gaine experience by travelling into forraigne parts, (to which course my parents had given consent some few yeers past, upon my first declaring of my inclination to the said profession,) upon the priviledge of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to travell, I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master and Fellowes, in the yeere 1589, being then full 23 yeeres old. And presently leaving the University, I went to London, there to follow some studies fit to inable me in this course; and there better taught, and these studies, the visiting of my friends in the country, my going to Oxford to take the same degree I had in Cambridge, and some oppositions upon new deliberation made by my father and friends against iny journey, detained me longer in those parts than I purposed."
The title of Moryson's book of travels, published at London in 1617, will indicate the extent of his journeyings, and the weight that is due to his remarks on Scotland. It is as follows: "An Itinerary written by Fynes Moryson, gent. First in the Latin tongue and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres' travell through the twelve Dominions of Germany, Bohemerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Italy, France, England, Scotland and Ireland."
Moryson thus describes his own book: "Touching the work in generall, I wil truly say, that I wrote it swiftly, and yet slowly. This may seeme a strange riddle, and not to racke your wit with the interpretation, myselfe will expound it: I wrote it swiftly, in that my pen was ready and nothing curious, as may appeare by the matter and style; and I wrote it slowly, in respect of the long time past since I viewed these dominions, and since I tooke this worke in hand. So as the worke may not unfitly be compared to a nose-gay of flowers, hastily snatched in many gardens, and with much leasure, yet carelessly and negligently bound together."
Fynes Moryson’s Itinerary (Part i. Book iii. Chap. 5)
MYSELF upon occasion of businesse in the month of Aprill, and the yeere 1598, tooke a journey to these said confines, namely, to Harwich, a Towne then very strongly fortified by the English, to restrain the sudden incursions of the Scots, and abounding with all things necessary for food, yea with many dainties, as salmons and all kinds of sheilfish, so plentifully, as they were sold for very small prices. And here I found that for the lending of sixtie pound, there wanted not good citizens, who would give the lender a faire chamber and a good dyet, as long as he would lend them the mony. Being to return from Barwicke, I had an earnest desire, first, to see the King of Scots Court. So from hence I rode in one day fortie miles to Edenborrow the chiefe Citie of that kingdome.
And in this said daies journey after foure miles riding I came to Aton a village where the Lord of Humes dwelles, whose family was powerfull in those parts. After sixteene miles more I came to Dunbar, which they said to have been of old, a Towne of some importance, but then it lay ruined, and seemed of little moment, as well for the povertie, as the small number of inhabitants. After the riding of eight miles more, on the left hand towards the West, and something out of the highway, the pleasant Village Hadirington lay, which the English, in the raigne of Queeue Elizabeth, tooke, and kept against the French, who drawne over in the time of faction, kept the Towne of Dunbar, and fortified the same.
When I had ridden five miles further, I came to the ancient and (according to the building of that Kingdome) stately Pallace of the L. Seton beautified with faire Orchards and Gardens, and for that clime pleasant. Not farre thence lyes the Village Prestongraung, belonging to the Family of the Cars powerfull from these parts to the very borders of England within land. After I had ridden three miles more, I came to the Village Fisherawe, neere which beyond a Brooke lyes the Village Musselborrow in a stony soyle, famous for a great Victorie of the English against the Scots. On the left hand towards the West, and something out of the highway, the Queene of Scots then kept her Court (in the absence of the King) at the Village Dawkeith, in a Pallace belonging to the Earle of Murray.
From the said Village Fisherawe, I rode the rest of the way, being four miles, and so in one dayes journey (as I said) came to Edenborrow, seated in Lodoney (of old called Pictland), the most civill Region of Scotland, being hilly and fruitfull of corne, but having little or no wood. This City is the seat of the King of Scotland, and the Courts of Justice are held in the same. Of old, according to the changeable fortune of warre, it was sometimes in the possession of the Scots, sometimes of the English inhabiting this Easterne part of Scotland, till the English Kingdome being shaken with the invasions of the Danes, at last about the yeere 960 it became wholly in the power of the Scots. This City is high seated, in a fruitfull soyle, and wholesome aire, and is adorned with many Noblemens Towers lying about it, and aboundeth with many springs of sweet waters.
At the end towards the East, is the Kings Pallace joyning to the Monastery of the Holy Crosse, which King David the first built, over which, in a Parke of Hares, Conies, and Deare, an high mountaine hangs, called the chaire of Arthur (of Arthur the Prince of the Britanes, whose monuments, famous among all Ballad-makers, are for the most part to be found on these borders of England and Scotland). From the Kings Pallace at the East, the City still riseth higher and higher towards the West, and consists especially of one broad and very faire street (which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof), the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people, and this length from the East to the West is about a mile, whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow, and cannot be halfe a mile.
At the farthest end towards the West, is a very strong Castle, which the Scots hold unexpugnable. Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines, Castle meyned ayned, by the Scots; the Castle of the Maids or Virgines (of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts), and by Ptolemy the winged Castle. And from this Castle towards the West, is a most steepe Eocke pointed on the highest top, out of which this Castle is cut: But on the North and South sides without the wals, lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne.
In the midst of the foresaid faire streete, the Cathedrall Church is built, which is large and lightsome, but little stately for the building, and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament. In this Church the Kings saate is built some few staires high of wood, and leaning upon the pillar next to the Pulpit: And opposite to the same is another seat very like it, in which the incontinent use to stand and doe pennance; and some few weekes past, a Gentleman, being a stranger, and taking it for a place whereir Men of better quality used to sit, boldly entred the same in Sermon time, till he was driven away with the profuse laughter of the common sort, to the disturbance of the whole Congregation.
The houses are built of unpolished stone, and in the faire streete good part of them is of freestone, which in that broade streete would make a faire shew, but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries, built upon the second story of the houses; yet these galleries give the owners a faire and pleasant prospect, into the said faire and broad street, when they sit or stand in the same. The wals of the City are built of little and unpolished stones, and seeme ancient, but are very narrow, and in some places exceeding low, in other, ruined.
From Edenborow there is a ditch of waters (yet not running from the inland, but rising of springs) which is carried to Lethe, and so to the Sea. Lethe is seated upon a creek of the Sea, called the Frith, some mile from Ederiborow, and hath a most commodious and large Haven. When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman, did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow, it began of a bare Village to grow to a Towne. And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots: againe the French (who now had in hope devoured the possession of that Kingdome, and in the yeere 1560, began to aime at the conquest of England) more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe: but Elizabeth Queene of England, called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen, called in by the Queene, soone effected that the French returned into their Country, and these fortifications were demolished.
From Leth I crossed over the Frith (which ebs and flows as high as Struelin) to the Village King-horn, being eight miles distant, and seated in the Region or Country called Fife, which is a Peninsule, that is, almost an Iland, lying betweene two creekes of the Sea, called Frith and Taye, and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and sea coales, as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld (among other fish) store of oysters and shel fishes, and this Countrey is populous, and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groves, though trees are so rare in those parts, as I remember not to have seene one wood.
From the said Village King-horn, I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting, but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife, where I did gladly see James the sixth King of the Scots, at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking, for which this ground is much commended; but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall, having nothing in it remarkeable. I thought to have ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City, seated in Fife, and well known as an University, and the seate of the Archbishop. But this journey being hindered, I wil onely say, that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes, at the intercession of the King of Scotland, James the third, was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland, the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome having formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England?
Likewise I purposed to take my journey as farre as Strivelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle, built upon the front of a steepe Rocke, which King James the sixth since adorned with many buildings, and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin, who likewise use to have the keeping of the Prince of Scotland, being under yeeres. And from thence I purposed to returne to Edcriborow, but some occasions of unexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England, so as I returned presently to Edenborow, and thence to Barwicke, the same way I came. Scotland reaching so farre into the North, must needs be subject to excessive cold, yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours. And as in the Northerne parts of England, they have small pleasantnes, goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers, so in Scotland they have much lesse, or none at all. And I remember, that coming to Barwick in the moneth of May, wee had great stormes, and felt great cold, when for two moneths before, the pleasant Spring had smiled on us at London.
On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes, Mountaines, and Lakes. On the East side towards the Sea, I passed Fife, a pleasant little Territory of open fields. Without inclosures, fruitfull in Corne (as bee all the partes neare Barwick, save that they yeeld little wheate, and much Barley and Oates), and all a plaine Country, but it had no Woodes at all, onely the Gentlemens dwellings were shaddowed with some little Groves, pleasant to the view. Scotland abounds with Fish, and hath plenty of all Cattell, yet not so bigge as ours, and their Horses are full of spirit, and patient of labour, but very little, so as the Scots then would give any price for one of our English Gueldings, which notwithstanding in Queene Elizdbcthe time might not upon great penalty be sold unto them.
The Navy or shipping of Scotland, was of small strength in the memory of our Age, neither were their Marriners of greet experience, but to make them more diligent Merchants, their Kings had formerly laid small or no impositions or customes on them: And whill the English had warre with the Spaniards, the Scots as neutrals by carrying of English commodities into Spaine, and by having their ships for more security laden by English Merchants, grew somewhat richer and more experienced in Navigation, and had better and stronger shippes then in former time. And surely since the Scots are very daring, I cannot see why their Marriners should not bee bold and courageous, howsoever they have not hitherto made any long voyages, rather for want of riches, then for slothfulnesse or want of courage.
The inhabitants of the Westerne parts of Scotland, carry into Ireland and Neighbouring places, red and pickeled Herrings, Sea coales, and Aquavitse, with like commodities, and bring out of Ireland Yarne and Cowes hides or Silver. The Easterne Scots carry into France course cloathes, both linnen and woollen, which be narrow and shrinkle in the wetting. They also carry thether Wooll, Skinnes of Goates, Weathers, and of Conies, and divers kindes of Fishes, taken in the Scottish Sea, and neere other Northerne Hands, and after smoked, or otherwise dried and salted.
And they bring from thence Salt and Wines: but the cheefe trafficke of the Scots is in foure places, namely, at Camphire in Zetland, whether they carry Salt, the Skinnes of Weathers, Otters, Badgers, and Martens, and bring from thence Corne. And at Burdeaux in France, whether they carry cloathes, and the same skinnes, and bring from thence Wines, Prunes, Walnuts, and Chessenuts. Thirdly, within the Balticke Sea, whither they carry the said Clothes and Skinnes, and bring thence Flaxe, Hempe, Iron, Pitch, and Tarre. And, lastly, in England, whether they carry Linnen cloathes, Yarne, and Salt, and bring thence Wheate, Gates, Beanes, and like things.
The Scots have no staple in any forraigne City, but trade in France upon the League of the Nations, and in Denmarke have priviledges by the affinity of the Kings, and flocke in great numbers into Poland, abounding in all things for foode, and yeelding many commodities. And in these Kingdomes they lived at this time in great multitudes, rather for the poverty of their owne Kingdome, then for any great trafficke they exercised there, dealing rather for small fardels, then for great quantities of rich wares.
Touching their diet: They eate much red Cole wort and Cabbage, but little fresh meate, using to salt their Mutton and Geese, which made me more wonder, that they used to eate Beefe without salting. The Gentlemen reckon their revenewes, not by rents of monie, but by cauldrons of victuals, and keepe many people in their Families, yet living most on Corne and Rootes, not spending any great quantity on flesh.
My selfe was at a Knights House, who had many servants to attend him, that brought in his meate with their heads covered with blew caps, the Table being more then halfe furnished with great platters of porredge, each having a little peece of sodden meate. And when the Table was served, the servants did sit downe with us, but the upper messe in steede of porredge, had a Pullet with some prunes in the broth. And I observed no Art of Cookery, or furniture of Houshold stuffe, but rather rude neglect of both, though my selfe and my companion, sent from the Governour of Barwicke about bordering affaires, were entertained after their best manner.
The Scots, living then in factions, used to keepe many followers, and so consumed their revenew of victuals, living in some want of money. They vulgarly eate harth Cakes of Gates, but in Cities have also wheaten bread, which for the most part was bought by Courtiers, Gentlemen, and the best sort of Citizens. When I lived at Barwicke, the Scots, weekely upon the market day, obtained leave in writing of the Governour, to buy Pease and Beanes, whereof, as also of Wheate, their Merchants at this day send great quantity from London into Scotland.
They drinke pure Wines, not with sugar as the English, yet at Feasts they put Comfits in the Wine, after the French manner, but they had not our Vinteners fraud to mixe their Wines. I did never see nor heare that they have any publike Innes l with signs hanging out, but the better sort of citizens brew ale, their usuall drinke (which will distemper a stranger's bodie), and the same Citizens will entertaine passengers upon acquaintance or entreaty. Their bedsteads were then like Cubbards in the wall, with doores to be opened and shut at pleasure, so as we climbed up to our beds. They used but one sheete, open at the sides and top, but close at the feete, and so doubled. Passengers did seeke a stable for their Horses in some other place, and did there buy hors-meat, and if perhaps the same house yeelded a stable, yet the payment for the Horse did not make them have beds free as in England.
I omit to speake of the Innes and expences therein, having delated the same in the Itinerary of the first Part, and a Chapter in this Part, expressely treating thereof. When passengers goe to bed, their custome was to present them with a sleeping cappe of wine at parting. The Country people and Merchants used to drinke largely, the Gentlemen somewhat more sparingly yet the very Courtiers, at Feasts, by night meetings, and entertaining any stranger, used to drinke healths not without excesse, and (to speake truth without offence), the excesse of drinking was then farre greater in generall among the Scots then the English.
My selfe being at the Court invited by some Gentlemen to supper, and being forewarned to feare this excesse, would not promise to sup with them but upon condition that my Inviter would be my protection from large drinking, which I was many times forced to invoke, being courteously entertained, and much provoked to garussing, and so for that time avoided any great intemperance. Remembering this, and having since observed in my conversation at the English Court with the Scots of the better sort, that they spend great part of the night in drinking, not onely wine, but even beere, as my selfe will not accuse them of great intemperance, so I cannot altogether free them from the imputation of excesse, wherewith the popular voice chargeth them.
Brown, Peter Hume. Early Travellers in Scotland. David Douglas, 1891.
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