What Equipment Should I Get?: Longsword
These equipment recommendations are tailored for fencers in the United States and are geared toward newcomers. They are based on the following factors: affordability, accessibility, effectiveness, and quality.
These equipment recommendations are tailored for fencers in the United States and are geared toward newcomers. They are based on the following factors: affordability, accessibility, effectiveness, and quality.
I would recommend every piece of equipment in this article to members of my club. You can choose which one best fits your needs and budget. This list is intended as a helpful starting point and is not exhaustive. The community is consistently working to improve the accessibility and affordability of gear; new options are always being developed as manufacturers take advantage of technological improvements to increase practitioner safety.
Kit:
Head
Fencing Mask
For an introduction to the differences between newton ratings for fencing masks, see this article by Keith Farrell about the difference between a “350N” fencing mask and a “1600N” fencing mask. Note that the minimum recommended newton rating for HEMA is 350.
This mask offers great protection at an affordable cost and is the one of the best starting masks for beginners.
This version of the AF Fencing Mask has integrated back of head protection and padding on the sides and top of the mask. This makes it an excellent option for beginners who want extra protection. The main disadvantages are that the extra padding causes the mask to trap more heat and can impact mobility of the head. It also makes the mask more challenging to clean.
Gorgets
Destroyer Modz (top recommendation):
This is the unofficial default for the VCU HEMA club because it is small and tucks under the jacket nicely. It is affordable, accessible, low tech, and low hassle.
PBT:
This has extra padding that can fit under the jacket for the collarbone, which is a nice feature, but depending on the jacket might not be necessary.
Easily accessible on Amazon, this is a simple and cheap option that does the job. The bib can also tuck under the lip of a chest protector when used without a jacket and can help prevent thrusts from deflecting off of the protector and sliding up under the mask.
This gorget is articulated and fully encloses the neck. It is arguably the most complete (and expensive) neck protection on the market.
Torso
Jacket
SPES AP Light (top recommendation):
This jacket is slightly more expensive than the base jacket. What makes it special is the extra integrated padding on the ribs, sternum, and shoulders, as well as its lighter weight and wicking lining. These features make it a worthwhile investment for those who desire greater protection and comfort than is offered by the base jacket. The women’s version is specifically cut to accommodate breasts. This jacket is multipurpose and can be used when training with most weapons.
There is a pro version that incorporates integrated rigid protection and is an excellent value.
This is the lightest and arguably nicest looking jacket offered by SPES. It is optimized for use with one-handed weapons such as saber and for use in light sparring. Because of that, it does not have the padding needed to take blows from a steel longsword without the addition of rigid forearm and chest protection.
One of the most affordable jackets on the market, the Lynx is comparable to the SPES light jacket. While it is reasonably well-padded, safe use requires the addition of rigid forearm, elbow, throat, and chest protection.
Sport Fencing Jackets:
For informal settings where you need an inexpensive jacket that still provides resistance to thrusts, a sport fencing jacket can work. In order to be effective, it must be layered with additional padding. At minimum, these additional layers should include a gorget, rigid chest protector, and forearm guards with integrated elbow protection. This type of jacket can be found used on eBay.
Here are some reliable sources for new sport fencing jackets:
Absolute Force (back zip):
Gambesons
Traditionally, gambesons were used to protect from swords and cuts; gambesons can be used in HEMA today. However, the way the padding is constructed does not provide as much protection from blunt force trauma as a jacket would. Additionally, they are not optimized for HEMA use; they do not have integrated padding for high impact areas, loops to mount forearm or elbow protection, blade catchers in the collar, wicking lining, or an efficient overlapping front zip. They can be made to work, but the extra effort and cost usually end up costing as much as an AP light jacket would anyway.
Here is a list of reputable sources for good gambesons:
Here is a list of HEMA specific gambesons:
Chest Protector
There is no reason not to wear a chest protector. Even in the most heavily padded HEMA jackets, the addition of rigid protection will help to disperse the impact of thrusts and can prevent bruises or broken ribs. In lighter jackets (e.g. the SPES officer jacket or sport fencing jackets), they are a necessity to prevent injuries. Chest protectors can also be worn when training without a jacket, but be aware that thrusts will tend to deflect off of the smooth surface, creating a risk that the blade could skip right up under the bib of the mask.
Men’s Chest Protector: Aside from men, many women prefer this chest protector since the women-specific chest protector is a one-sized fit all that does not, in fact, fit all.
Women’s Chest Protector: There is no universal chest protector that will fit every woman. The following sources are some options for chest defense that also include protection for the ribs and are suitable for HEMA. If at all possible, try them both at a local club and use the one that fits the best. Both of these options can be measured by bra size which helps to ensure a comfortable fit. Be aware that the shape of some women’s chest protectors may cause an increased risk of blows being deflected toward the sternum.
Econoguard Women’s Chest Protector:
If it fits and feels comfortable, this chest protector will offer excellent protection to the ribs and breasts. The plastic is thin enough to flex, and it fits easily under jackets.
The Maxiguard integrates a rigid plate into a sports bra, combining excellent protection with the functionality of a sports bra.
For light armor without a jacket, plastrons like this one can also be used instead of a chest protector.
Arms
Elbow Protection
SPES Elbow Protector (used with a jacket):
This is one of the best elbow protectors available for HEMA. Few alternatives do everything an elbow protector needs to do at this low of a price. I highly recommend finding a way to tie these to your jacket to prevent them from slipping and sliding during a fight. Conveniently, they integrate really well with the SPES jacket.
Rollerblading/hockey/lacrosse elbow protection:
Some people prefer to repurpose previously used elbow protection from hockey, lacrosse, rollerblading, or other similar sports. Unlike the SPES elbow protectors that work best with a jacket, these alternatives can be used effectively either with or without a jacket and provide excellent protection to the elbow.
Forearm Protection
Destroyer Modz Forearm Protectors (top recommendation):
These are designed to be put over a jacket and protect your arms with minimal bulk. This helps to prevent them from interfering with high guards like Ochs and High Vom Tag. Again, I recommend you find a way to attach them to your jacket so they do not slip and slide.
Prometheus Packs Forearm Guards:
These are lightweight affordable forearm guards that are just as lightweight as the Destroyer Modz guards while covering more areas. I highly recommend them; just be aware they are a short run and have limited stock.
Jason Barrons wrote an excellent review in Measure and Weigh.
Lynx Forearm and Elbow Guards:
Some of the most affordable forearm/elbow protection on the market, these are modeled after the original SPES forearm guards. They still restrict the range of motion and high guards for longsword but are a very affordable way to get your hands on some forearm protection.
SPES Forearm Protectors with Integrated Elbows:
These are not optimal for longsword, as they are too bulky and get in the way of high guards like Ochs and High Vom Tag. However, they offer great protection and, unlike many other forearm guards, cover all sides of the arm. They also include elbow protection and offer excellent arm protection when training without a jacket.
Gloves
SPES Heavies: (top beginner recommendation):
There is no perfect HEMA glove, but these will give you a good chance of going home with all ten fingers intact. They sacrifice mobility and dexterity for protection. The flared cuffs work really well with the SPES jacket. Consider adding blast caps to the thumb.
Sparring Gloves (top five-fingered recommendation):
These are custom made and very lightweight. As such, they offer some of the best fit and mobility available among HEMA gloves; however, they sacrifice some protection for dexterity. They are one of the most customizable options available and are offered in a five-fingered, three-fingered hoof, or mitten style. The mitten style is a popular choice among competitors in European tournaments. The five-fingered style is among the best options for those seeking additional dexterity, provided you are willing to pay a little extra and wait a little longer for your gloves. Be aware that, as with any equipment, the resin will degrade over time and can potentially crack after years of use. Their United States distributor is HEMA Supplies.
A relative newcomer to the HEMA market, these gloves provide protection via steel plates riveted into a leather glove. They are gaining a popular following and seem to be an excellent choice for durable five-fingered protection.
Lightly padded gloves such as these are excellent for light drilling and solo practice. However, they should not be used in partner drills unless both practitioners are experienced, and they should never be used in longsword sparring.
These gloves can be pre-ordered (either through Proguntlet directly if you live in Europe or through Purpleheart if you live in the US). They have the potential to revolutionize the HEMA glove market, and I am very excited for them to come out. However, at the time of this writing, they are not available to the public. A glove will not do you any good until it is on your hand; for now, it may be best to stick to one of the above recommendations.
Legs
Pants
SPES Locust Pants (top recommendation):
I love these pants because the cut allows for good mobility and because the high hip padding provides nice protection if the jacket lifts up when the wearer assumes a high guard. The knees are padded, and anchor points are provided for the SPES knee guards. The women’s pants are cut specifically to accommodate wider hips.
Men’s Pants
A stripped-down fighting pant offering the bare necessities, these pants are eminently affordable and a good way to provide basic thigh and hip protection.
These are one of the best alternatives to SPES pants, also boasting an 800N rating and featuring integrated high-density foam padding at key points.
Despite the name, the skirt is co-ed and is not used strictly by female-identifying fencers. It is designed to provide additional protection to the upper thighs and hips. Because the skirt provides padding, it does not necessarily need to be paired with pants. If you do not want pants, it is a nice alternative to provide upper thigh padding and does not restrict mobility in the legs. Just be aware that the skirt closes in the back and therefore does not provide any padding to the tailbone. While the updated version is slightly more expensive then the original skirt, it features increased protection, a modular pad system, and quality buckles.
Groin Protection
Groin protection in general (search athletic cup):
This is mandatory for anyone with male genitalia and recommended for everyone else. You can find it in any major sports store or online. There are also specific models for anyone with female genitalia.
Knee Guards
SPES Knee Protector (top recommendation when paired with SPES pants):
These, like the elbow protectors, are one of the best knee guards because they do their job with the pants for a low cost. The pants have anchor points for the knees to ensure they do not go anywhere.
This is an unofficial standard of the community because it is cheap and it provides great protection. However, the buckles can fail or come undone during a fight. They are best used with the skirt or thin, non-SPES pants.
Sigmund Werndorf gives an excellent breakdown in this Measure and Weigh: Knee Pro Ultra written review.
Red Dragon Knee Guards/Motocross Guards:
The Red Dragon guards and others like them provide combined articulating knee protection and shin protection. Some people prefer the articulating knees and find the integrated shin guards convenient and protective.
A quality source for good motocross gear is Broomball.
Similar to the SPES knee guards in price and design, these provide wrap-around protection for the knee and can be mounted on any fencing pant with attachment anchors.
Affordable combined knee/shin guards, these are comparable to other motocross armor and provide comprehensive leg protection.
Baseball knee/shin guards:
These combine knee and shin guards all in one and can be a great solution for leg protection. Buckles and straps on lesser guards can fail or come undone, but generally, the metal clips and rings on baseball guards are more durable than plastic. Look on eBay for cheaper alternatives to buying new.
Shin Guards
Harrow Probot Shin Guard (top recommendation):
These are designed to be worn under your socks and provide fantastic protection with no possibility of something flying off or moving during a fight. They are also high enough to integrate into your pants to prevent a gap between your knees and shin.
Jay Tsulis gives an in-depth review in this Measure and Weigh: Harrow Probot Shin Guard written review.
These are simple but functional. The straps tend to wear down after a while, but they provide good protection for the price.
Socks
There is no real price difference between socks for fencing and compression socks. Just as long as they are knee-length and are snug without being constricting. They are designed to fit over shin guards or under shin protection to prevent chafing. Amazon can generally ship you something in a minimum of two days. Soccer or other sport socks also work just fine.
Shoes
Shoes are a personal choice based on your foot needs, traction preferences, and style. Personally, I have noticed that fencing shoes or tennis/court shoes tend to be thin enough that you can have good tactile feedback through your feet and grippy enough that you are not in danger of slipping. Some people find they prefer wrestling shoes or minimalist footwear. Always try to buy your shoes in person and test them at the store with footwork. Make sure if they rise up to support the ankle that you can still perform lunges and that the shoes do not limit your range of motion.
Kit Maintenance
Once you have bought all your kit, it is important to maintain it:
Keith Farrell describes how to wash a fencing mask, either by hand or in the dishwasher.
Keith Farrell also wrote a wonderful article about how to wash a SPES Jacket.
Notes About Kit
The most important thing is to make sure that you and your sparring partner are safe. HEMAA’s Safety Policy lays out what is required in your kit for each weapon in order to be safe and provides some starting definitions to help you navigate options as you become more familiar with this new world.
The order in which you buy pieces of kit is up to you. Generally, people buy a mask first (so they do not have to use other people’s sweaty masks), then gloves, a gorget, then finally a jacket. Mask, gloves, gorget, and groin protection should be the first things you buy. Do not forget groin protection.
Keith Farrell weighs in on a sensible progression for buying longsword equipment.
If you are attending a club, make it a point to follow their gear guidelines and ask around for gear recommendations. If you see a sword or a piece of kit that you are interested in, ask to try it out and get their feedback about the piece.
Before competing in any tournament, make sure your kit is compliant with their rules and safety guidelines. Be aware that some tournaments may have specific newton requirements for masks or other pieces of kit, so always read the rules before signing up.
A synthetic sword (explained down below) is usually bought at or around the same time as a mask so you can practice at home and do not have to keep chasing down swords during practice.
I personally like to have as much rigid protection integrated into jackets or pants as possible. Not only does this cut down on the time it takes to put it all on, but it also ensures everything stays in place during a fight. I have found that “free-floating” protection tends to be more trouble than it is worth. You do not want to have to fight your gear and your opponent at the same time.
There is such a thing as being overprotected. If you cannot feel hits, then you will not care about being hit. That will lead you to train recklessly and to form suicidal behaviors, which defeats the point of what we are trying to learn. Your kit should prevent you from getting hurt, but it should not take away from the experience of fearing getting hit. There is an important difference between the two.
This stuff is expensive, and it is okay if you cannot buy it all at once. It took me four years to build my full steel kit. Take your time and invest in quality, even if it is expensive, because it will serve you better in the long run. For a nice discount, try placing group orders with other members of your club.
Train in the full kit as much as possible; get used to it, and make it a second skin. Eventually, if you close your eyes, you should not be able to tell that you are wearing it because you are so used to the weight of it.
I have found that wearing a skin-tight base layer that is designed for cooling has made an incredible dent in the overheating problem. Available equipment has gotten better, and wicking jackets are a godsend, but you will still sweat a lot. Having wicking leggings, shirts, and headbands (depending on your preferences) helps to manage the sweat and accelerates the cooling process if you unzip your jacket between bouts. I have used rashguards in the past. For the best search results, use key phrases like “rashguard”, “cooling”, or “moisture wicking” for shirts, leggings, and headbands.
Once you are fully kitted up, there should be no skin showing. Not only does this protect your skin from abrasions either from the mat or rough weapon edges, but it also provides a wicking base layer to help manage heat and sweat.
For safety’s sake, it is generally a good idea to be wearing every part of the above list to spar with steel swords; mask, gorget, groin protection, and gloves are the minimum possible gear for drilling in steel or sparring with synthetics. In general, no tournament will let you fight unless you have rigid joint and throat protection, forearm guards, gloves, some kind of jacket (preferably with a rigid chest protector), gorget, athletic cup, and a mask with a back of head protector.
Swords
This list is a brief overview of the common swords available. Feders are designed specifically for competition. They have a greater flex in the blade, a protected tip (rolled or spatulated), wider edges to disperse the force of impact and prevent chipping, and a point of balance closer to the crossguard. Blunt swords are sharp longswords with no edge. They are stiffer, have no schilt, and their point of balance is optimized for cutting. This list only includes recommendations for feders because blunt longswords are generally not allowed in tournaments and carry different safety considerations.
There are a substantial number of feders available, but here is a brief list of the most popular and highly recommended feders.
For a more in-depth discussion about nylon swords vs. steel swords, visit this article. In general, nylon swords are used by beginners because they are less expensive and safer to train with than steel swords. Steel swords accurately replicate real historical weapons and are the preferred tool for training and competition; however, they are more expensive and require more protective equipment to safely spar with.
Synthetic
Purpleheart Pentti Meyer Federschwert Longsword:
This is the standard synthetic trainer for our club and is by far one of the nicest practice weapons I’ve ever handled. We prefer to practice with these rather than the longsword variant because these help accustom you to the use of a schilt. Opting for a stainless steel pommel will help to minimize rust, though it may add to the cost. For Fioreists, the schiltless Pentti is an excellent training tool.
Blackfencer makes a wide array of excellent steel and synthetic trainers, everything from simulation sharp synthetic trainers to synthetic partisans and rapiers. Their longswords are excellent training tools on par with Purpleheart’s Penttis. The blade is a bit stiffer, and the cord grip can be a bit rough without gloves. The American distributor of their products is South Coast Swords, but it can be difficult to catch them when they are in stock. For Fioreists, the schiltless longsword is an excellent training tool.
Steel
These feders are the least expensive steel feder on the list and are an excellent starting sword. The folks at Purpleheart and VB have listened to community feedback and refined their design over the years; their swords are now excellent, affordable, and accessible training tools.
An excellent review of the Italian feder by Jason Barrons in Measure and Weigh.
Castille is a company based in America that makes feders with excellent durability and handling characteristics for a reasonable price. They are good for rough and tumble sparring and are fantastic workhorse swords.
Ensifers are made in Poland and imported by Purpleheart; they have a reputation for being tough and sturdy, if a bit deliberate. They aren’t nimble and quick, but they still provide a solid bind and sturdy construction.
Any sword by Albion is always a pleasure to handle but, in my experience, the Meyer handles like water. Its balance point is placed so that the entire sword is light and nimble, and it seems to go exactly where you need it to go. While the blade is fractionally shorter than other feders, the handling characteristics are well worth it.
Regenyei Feders (standard feder):
Regenyei has been a community standard since forever, and for good reason. These feders are tough, versatile, and very nice to use. His United States distributor is HEMA Supplies.
A relative newcomer to the market, SIGI swords are an excellent and exciting addition to the HEMA community.
Jason Barrons gives a wonderful review in Measure and Weigh.
This sword is sleek. Its crossguard features an attractive S curve, and its schilt flows elegantly into the crossguard. It’s light and graceful, and everyone that I have talked to has said that it’s among their favorite swords.
Jason Barrons echos this sentiment in his review for Measure and Weigh.
Arms & Armor Fetchbuch Longsword Trainer:
Although they primarily deal with sharp swords and custom projects, Arms & Armor is attached to the Oakeshott Institute; as such, they offer exceptional historical accuracy, extensive experience, and beautiful products. Their training sword is an exemplar of attention to detail and makes for a wonderful sparing experience.
This company is European based, and their training swords are quite durable. These have been a staple at competitions for years. Their US distributor is HEMA Supplies.
SGT Blades is a US-based family-owned and operated company that makes wonderful feders and custom swords.
Training Sword Maintenance
Once you have purchased your expensive sword, it’s important to take care of it:
Rust: Know Your Enemy: Sean Franklin discusses what rust is and how to prevent it from forming on your blades.
Training Sword Maintenance: A wonderful article published by HROARR that covers everything from rust to filing out nicks and dents, to storage and long term care.
This video provides a walk-through of how to clean and oil your sword for storage after you have finished filing out any burrs or nicks:
Sharp
Cold Steel Hand and a Half Sword:
The Cold Steel sharp hand and a half sword and Italian longsword have been HEMA workhorses for years. They are ubiquitous and excellent beginner cutting swords, and at least one can be found at nearly every cutting competition. Cold Steel has been quietly reaching out to the community and improving its product over the last few years, and the result is an excellent beginner training tool at an affordable price.
Purpleheart Competition Sharp Longsword:
Designed by Purpleheart and Mike Edelson of the New York Historical Fencing Association, this sword is specifically designed for HEMA cutting. Its geometry, point of balance, and handling characteristics have been optimized to make cutting as consistent as possible and to encourage technical competence. It is also an eminently affordable cutting sword and includes a carrying case.
An excellent mid-range sword in both price and performance, this sword is a workhorse. Its construction and geometry lend itself very well to cutting, and Albion’s choice of steel and forging process enable the edge to stay sharper for longer.
This sword is a wonderful alternative to the Crecy at a similar price point.
This is a higher quality cutting sword that can provide a significant advantage in cutting competitions amongst practitioners of equal skill. It is nothing short of a wonderfully engineered, finely honed cutting machine and is nearly peerless in the balance it strikes between price and performance. Beginners should be aware that training with an Albion sword can make cutting too easy and compensate for bad technique; it may be better to learn with a cheaper sword that accurately reflects flaws in technique. Like the Crecy and Talhoffer, the Principe belongs to Albion’s Next Generation line, which includes several other quality sharps across a range of specifications and price points.
Sharp Sword Maintenance
In addition to oiling your sword and keeping it free of rust, it is important to be able to sharpen your own swords. A factory sharpened Albion sword will consistently be outperformed by a properly sharpened Cold Steel sword.
Mike Edelson's Sword Sharpening Class: Mike Edelson of the New York Historical Fencing Association is a very skilled instructor and practitioner. He has written an excellent book about the mechanics of cutting with a sharp sword. He describes the technique he uses to sharpen his swords.
Karl Bolle’s sharpening technique: World champion cutter Karl Bolle builds off of Mike Edelson’s technique with findings from microscopic examinations of sword blades sharpened using different techniques. In this video, he presents the results of his findings and a comprehensive technique to achieve a flawless sword edge.
Written by Nicholas Allen, founder and former head instructor of the VCU HEMA club.
Edited by Kiana Shurkin, xKDF
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