What Equipment Should I Get?: Singlestick and Dussack
These equipment recommendations are tailored for fencers in the United States and are geared toward newcomers. They are based on the following factors: affordability, accessibility, effectiveness, and quality.
These equipment recommendations are tailored for fencers in the United States and are geared toward newcomers. They are based on the following factors: affordability, accessibility, effectiveness, and quality.
I would recommend every piece of equipment in this article to members of my club. You can choose which one best fits your needs and budget. This list is intended as a helpful starting point and is not exhaustive. The community is consistently working to improve the accessibility and affordability of gear; new options are always being developed as manufacturers take advantage of technological improvements to increase practitioner safety.
Kit:
Head
Fencing Mask
For an introduction to the differences between newton ratings for fencing masks, see this article by Keith Farrell about the difference between a “350N” fencing mask and a “1600N” fencing mask. Note that the minimum recommended newton rating for HEMA is 350.
This mask offers great protection at an affordable cost and is the one of the best starting masks for beginners.
Back of the head protection helps to protect the back of the head, neck, and upper spine from accidental blows. Overlays like the Unity and Trinity provide increased protection at increased cost, but they also tend to trap more heat inside the mask.
This version of the AF Fencing Mask has integrated back of head protection and padding on the sides and top of the mask. This makes it an excellent option for beginners who want extra protection. The main disadvantages are that the extra padding causes the mask to trap more heat and can impact mobility of the head. It also makes the mask more challenging to clean.
Gorgets
Destroyer Modz (top recommendation):
This is the unofficial default for the VCU HEMA club because it is small and tucks under the jacket nicely. It is affordable, accessible, low tech, and low hassle.
PBT:
This has extra padding that can fit under the jacket for the collarbone, which is a nice feature, but depending on the jacket might not be necessary.
Easily accessible on Amazon, this is a simple and cheap option that does the job. The bib can also tuck under the lip of a chest protector when used without a jacket and can help prevent thrusts from deflecting off of the protector and sliding up under the mask.
This gorget is articulated and fully encloses the neck. It is arguably the most complete (and expensive) neck protection on the market.
Torso
Jacket
SPES AP Light (top recommendation):
This jacket is slightly more expensive than the base jacket. What makes it special is the extra integrated padding on the ribs, sternum, and shoulders, as well as its lighter weight and wicking lining. These features make it a worthwhile investment for those who desire greater protection and comfort than is offered by the base jacket. The women’s version is specifically cut to accommodate breasts. This jacket is multipurpose and can be used when training with most weapons.
There is a pro version that incorporates integrated rigid protection and is an excellent value.
This is the lightest and arguably nicest looking jacket offered by SPES. It is optimized for use with one-handed weapons such as saber and for use in light sparring. Because of that, it is well suited for sparring with singlesticks and dussacks. Be aware that it does not have the padding needed to take blows from a steel longsword without the addition of rigid forearm and chest protection.
One of the most affordable jackets on the market, the Lynx is comparable to the SPES light jacket. While it is reasonably well-padded, safe use requires the addition of rigid forearm, elbow, throat, and chest protection.
Sport Fencing Jackets:
For informal settings where you need an inexpensive jacket that still provides resistance to thrusts, a sport fencing jacket can work. In order to be effective, it must be layered with additional padding. At minimum, these additional layers should include a gorget, rigid chest protector, and forearm guards with integrated elbow protection. This type of jacket can be found used on eBay.
Here are some reliable sources for new sport fencing jackets:
Absolute Force (back zip):
Gambesons
Traditionally, gambesons were used to protect from swords and cuts; gambesons can be used in HEMA today. However, the way the padding is constructed does not provide as much protection from blunt force trauma as a jacket would. Additionally, they are not optimized for HEMA use; they do not have integrated padding for high impact areas, loops to mount forearm or elbow protection, blade catchers in the collar, wicking lining, or an efficient overlapping front zip. They can be made to work, but the extra effort and cost usually end up costing as much as an AP light jacket would anyway.
Here is a list of reputable sources for good gambesons:
Here is a list of HEMA specific gambesons:
Chest Protector
There is no reason not to wear a chest protector. Even in the most heavily padded HEMA jackets, the addition of rigid protection will help to disperse the impact of thrusts and can prevent bruises or broken ribs. In lighter jackets (e.g. the SPES officer jacket or sport fencing jackets), they are a necessity to prevent injuries. Chest protectors can also be worn when training without a jacket, but be aware that thrusts will tend to deflect off of the smooth surface, creating a risk that the weapon could skip right up under the bib of the mask.
Men’s Chest Protector: Aside from men, many women prefer this chest protector since the women-specific chest protector is a one-sized fit all that does not, in fact, fit all.
Women’s Chest Protector: There is no universal chest protector that will fit every woman. The following sources are some options for chest defense that also include protection for the ribs and are suitable for HEMA. If at all possible, try them both at a local club and use the one that fits the best. Both of these options can be measured by bra size which helps to ensure a comfortable fit. Be aware that the shape of some women’s chest protectors may cause an increased risk of blows being deflected toward the sternum.
Econoguard Women’s Chest Protector:
If it fits and feels comfortable, this chest protector will offer excellent protection to the ribs and breasts. The plastic is thin enough to flex, and it fits easily under jackets.
The Maxiguard integrates a rigid plate into a sports bra, combining excellent protection with the functionality of a sports bra.
For light armor without a jacket, plastrons like this one can also be used instead of a chest protector.
Arms
Elbow Protection
SPES Elbow Protector (used with a jacket):
This is one of the best elbow protectors available for HEMA. Few alternatives do everything an elbow protector needs to do at this low of a price. I highly recommend finding a way to tie these to your jacket to prevent them from slipping and sliding during a fight. Conveniently, they integrate really well with the SPES jacket.
Rollerblading/hockey/lacrosse elbow protection:
Some people prefer to repurpose previously used elbow protection from hockey, lacrosse, rollerblading, or other similar sports. Unlike the SPES elbow protectors that work best with a jacket, these alternatives can be used effectively either with or without a jacket and provide excellent protection to the elbow.
Forearm Protection
Destroyer Modz Forearm Protectors (top recommendation):
These are designed to be put over a jacket and protect your arms with minimal bulk. This helps to prevent them from interfering with high guards. Again, I recommend you find a way to attach them to your jacket so they do not slip and slide.
Prometheus Packs Forearm Guards:
These are lightweight affordable forearm guards that are just as lightweight as the Destroyer Modz guards while covering more areas. I highly recommend them; just be aware they are a short run and have limited stock.
Jason Barrons wrote an excellent review in Measure and Weigh.
Lynx Forearm and Elbow Guards:
Some of the most affordable forearm/elbow protection on the market, these are modeled after the original SPES forearm guards. They still restrict the range of motion and high guards for longsword but are a very affordable way to get your hands on some forearm protection.
SPES Forearm Protectors with Integrated Elbows:
These are a gold standard for forearm protection when working with single-handed weapons. They offer great protection and, unlike many other forearm guards, cover all sides of the arm. Because of the frequency of targeting forearms and hands in both singlestick and dussack fencing, these provide excellent protection for those purposes at an affordable price. They also include elbow protection and offer great coverage of the arm even when training without a jacket.
Gloves
Lightly padded gloves like these are excellent for light drilling and solo practice. Depending on the singlestick or dussack being used and how protective its hilt is, you might also be able to safely spar with just these. However, you should be aware that the wrists and forearms are common targets, and the padding provided by these gloves might be insufficient. These gloves are a common choice for the offhand, because the glove generally only has to protect against incidental hits.
Sparring Gloves (top five-fingered recommendation):
These are custom made and very lightweight. As such, they offer some of the best fit and mobility available among HEMA gloves; however, they sacrifice some protection for dexterity. They are one of the most customizable options available and are offered in a five-fingered, three-fingered hoof, or mitten style. The mitten style is a popular choice among competitors in European tournaments. The five-fingered style is among the best options for those seeking additional dexterity, provided you are willing to pay a little extra and wait a little longer for your gloves. Be aware that, as with any equipment, the resin will degrade over time and can potentially crack after years of use. Their United States distributor is HEMA Supplies.
The only reason to train singlestick or dussack with SPES heavies is if you don’t have other gloves. Otherwise, there are very few situations in singlestick or dussack sparring that would necessitate as much protection as the heavies provide. This is especially true for singlesticks because most feature excellent integrated protection for the hand and fingers; the main joint at risk is the wrist. Depending on the construction of your training weapon, SPES Heavies may make it difficult to fit your hand around the hilt. Leather dussacks, in addition to protecting the hand, don’t hit with enough force to necessitate SPES levels of protection.
These gloves can be pre-ordered (either through Proguntlet directly if you live in Europe or through Purpleheart if you live in the US). They have the potential to revolutionize the HEMA glove market, and I am very excited for them to come out. However, at the time of this writing, they are not available to the public. A glove will not do you any good until it is on your hand; for now, it may be best to stick to one of the above recommendations.
Legs
Pants
SPES Locust Pants (top recommendation):
I love these pants because the cut allows for good mobility and because the high hip padding provides nice protection if the jacket lifts up when the wearer assumes a high guard. The knees are padded, and anchor points are provided for the SPES knee guards. The women’s pants are cut specifically to accommodate wider hips.
Men’s Pants
A stripped-down fighting pant offering the bare necessities, these pants are eminently affordable and a good way to provide basic thigh and hip protection.
These are one of the best alternatives to SPES pants, also boasting an 800N rating and featuring integrated high-density foam padding at key points.
Despite the name, the skirt is co-ed and is not used strictly by female-identifying fencers. It is designed to provide additional protection to the upper thighs and hips. Because the skirt provides padding, it does not necessarily need to be paired with pants. If you do not want pants, it is a nice alternative to provide upper thigh padding and does not restrict mobility in the legs. Just be aware that the skirt closes in the back and therefore does not provide any padding to the tailbone. While the updated version is slightly more expensive then the original skirt, it features increased protection, a modular pad system, and quality buckles.
Groin Protection
Groin protection in general (search athletic cup):
This is mandatory for anyone with male genitalia and recommended for everyone else. You can find it in any major sports store or online. There are also specific models for anyone with female genitalia.
Knee Guards
SPES Knee Protector (top recommendation when paired with SPES pants):
These, like the elbow protectors, are one of the best knee guards because they do their job with the pants for a low cost. The pants have anchor points for the knees to ensure they do not go anywhere.
This is an unofficial standard of the community because it is cheap and it provides great protection. However, the buckles can fail or come undone during a fight. They are best used with the skirt or thin, non-SPES pants.
Sigmund Werndorf gives an excellent breakdown in this Measure and Weigh: Knee Pro Ultra written review.
Red Dragon Knee Guards/Motocross Guards:
The Red Dragon guards and others like them provide combined articulating knee protection and shin protection. Some people prefer the articulating knees and find the integrated shin guards convenient and protective.
A quality source for good motocross gear is Broomball.
Similar to the SPES knee guards in price and design, these provide wrap-around protection for the knee and can be mounted on any fencing pant with attachment anchors.
Affordable combined knee/shin guards, these are comparable to other motocross armor and provide comprehensive leg protection.
Baseball knee/shin guards:
These combine knee and shin guards all in one and can be a great solution for leg protection. Buckles and straps on lesser guards can fail or come undone, but generally, the metal clips and rings on baseball guards are more durable than plastic. Look on eBay for cheaper alternatives to buying new.
Shin Guards
Harrow Probot Shin Guard (top recommendation):
These are designed to be worn under your socks and provide fantastic protection with no possibility of something flying off or moving during a fight. They are also high enough to integrate into your pants to prevent a gap between your knees and shin.
Jay Tsulis gives an in-depth review in this Measure and Weigh: Harrow Probot Shin Guard written review.
These are simple but functional. The straps tend to wear down after a while, but they provide good protection for the price.
Socks
There is no real price difference between socks for fencing and compression socks. Just as long as they are knee-length and are snug without being constricting. They are designed to fit over shin guards or under shin protection to prevent chafing. Amazon can generally ship you something in a minimum of two days. Soccer or other sport socks also work just fine.
Shoes
Shoes are a personal choice based on your foot needs, traction preferences, and style. Personally, I have noticed that fencing shoes or tennis/court shoes tend to be thin enough that you can have good tactile feedback through your feet and grippy enough that you are not in danger of slipping. Some people find they prefer wrestling shoes or minimalist footwear. Always try to buy your shoes in person and test them at the store with footwork. Make sure if they rise up to support the ankle that you can still perform lunges and that the shoes do not limit your range of motion.
Kit Maintenance
Once you have bought all your kit, it is important to maintain it:
Keith Farrell describes how to wash a fencing mask, either by hand or in the dishwasher.
Keith Farrell also wrote a wonderful article about how to wash a SPES Jacket.
Notes About Kit
The most important thing is to make sure that you and your sparring partner are safe. HEMAA’s Safety Policy lays out what is required in your kit for each weapon in order to be safe and provides some starting definitions to help you navigate options as you become more familiar with this new world.
The order in which you buy pieces of kit is up to you. Generally, people buy a mask first (so they do not have to use other people’s sweaty masks), then gloves, a gorget, then finally a jacket. Mask, gloves, gorget, and groin protection should be the first things you buy. Do not forget groin protection.
Keith Farrell weighs in on a sensible progression for buying longsword equipment.
If you are attending a club, make it a point to follow their gear guidelines and ask around for gear recommendations. If you see a weapon or a piece of kit that you are interested in, ask to try it out and get their feedback about the piece.
Before competing in any tournament, make sure your kit is compliant with their rules and safety guidelines. Be aware that some tournaments may have specific newton requirements for masks or other pieces of kit, so always read the rules before signing up.
A training weapon is usually bought at or around the same time as a mask so you can practice at home and do not have to keep chasing down loaners during practice.
I personally like to have as much rigid protection integrated into jackets or pants as possible. Not only does this cut down on the time it takes to put it all on, but it also ensures everything stays in place during a fight. I have found that “free-floating” protection tends to be more trouble than it is worth. You do not want to have to fight your gear and your opponent at the same time.
There is such a thing as being overprotected. If you cannot feel hits, then you will not care about being hit. That will lead you to train recklessly and to form suicidal behaviors, which defeats the point of what we are trying to learn. Your kit should prevent you from getting hurt, but it should not take away from the experience of fearing getting hit. There is an important difference between the two.
This stuff is expensive, and it is okay if you cannot buy it all at once. It took me four years to build my full steel kit. Take your time and invest in quality, even if it is expensive, because it will serve you better in the long run. For a nice discount, try placing group orders with other members of your club.
Train in the full kit as much as possible; get used to it, and make it a second skin. Eventually, if you close your eyes, you should not be able to tell that you are wearing it because you are so used to the weight of it.
I have found that wearing a skin-tight base layer that is designed for cooling has made an incredible dent in the overheating problem. Available equipment has gotten better, and wicking jackets are a godsend, but you will still sweat a lot. Having wicking leggings, shirts, and headbands (depending on your preferences) helps to manage the sweat and accelerates the cooling process if you unzip your jacket between bouts. I have used rashguards in the past. For the best search results, use key phrases like “rashguard”, “cooling”, or “moisture wicking” for shirts, leggings, and headbands.
Once you are fully kitted up, there should be no skin showing. Not only does this protect your skin from abrasions either from the mat or rough weapon edges, but it also provides a wicking base layer to help manage heat and sweat.
For safety’s sake, it is generally a good idea to be wearing every part of the above list to spar with steel weapons; mask, gorget, groin protection, and gloves are the minimum possible gear for drilling with steel or sparring with synthetics. In general, no tournament will let you fight unless you have rigid joint and throat protection, forearm guards, gloves, some kind of jacket (preferably with a rigid chest protector), gorget, athletic cup, and a mask with a back of head protector.
Weapons
Singlestick
Purpleheart Singlestick - Rattan with Stryker Hilt:
Purpleheart is the leading supplier of singlesticks. Their selection is both extensive and high in quality. While they carry a very nice singlestick with a leather basket hilt, their plastic basket hilt is more affordable and offers just as much protection. This is an excellent singlestick for beginners to use to start training in one-handed weapons. While hickory singlesticks are available, they are very stout and have very little flex, which can leave massive bruises and potentially break fingers. The rattan sticks have more give and disperse force more evenly; they can still hurt, but they’re safer than the hickory.
Dussack
Purpleheart Dussack Basic Trainer:
As with the rest of their basic trainer series, this dussack is accessible and affordable. Though it does not flex in the thrust and is not recommended for sparring unless both fighters have appropriate kit and fence with control, this is an excellent way to get your hands on a dussack and start training. There is a version that flexes in the thrust, but it is marginally more expensive.
The leather dussack has been a community standard since the community first formed. This dussack has stood over a decade of use and testing and is still one of the best sparring tools for beginners. It is very hard to seriously hurt someone with this, and it allows new students to spar in minimal kit. It also allows newcomers to get used to hitting other people and getting hit themselves without any undue risk. The leather dussack can also allow clubs who train single-handed swords to equip a class of 30 without bankrupting themselves. This is one of the premier training tools of HEMA and will likely continue to be for many years to come.
Arms & Armor Steel Dussack Trainer:
If you want a steel dussack, Arms & Armor offers an excellent solution. The steel blade offers better feedback in the bind and a tactile feel closer to that of a steel sword in the bind. However, because it is steel, it requires a higher level of kit to spar with safely.
Written by Nicholas Allen, founder and former head instructor of the VCU HEMA club.
Edited by Kiana Shurkin, xKDF
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