What Equipment Should I Get?: Polearms
These equipment recommendations are tailored for fencers in the United States and are geared toward newcomers. They are based on the following factors: affordability, accessibility, effectiveness, and quality.
These equipment recommendations are tailored for fencers in the United States and are geared toward newcomers. They are based on the following factors: affordability, accessibility, effectiveness, and quality.
I would recommend every piece of equipment in this article to members of my club. You can choose which one best fits your needs and budget. This list is intended as a helpful starting point and is not exhaustive. The community is consistently working to improve the accessibility and affordability of gear; new options are always being developed as manufacturers take advantage of technological improvements to increase practitioner safety.
Kit
Head
Fencing Mask
Sparring with polearms is inherently dangerous. Fencing masks are not designed to deal with the force generated by even gentle, controlled strikes. Plate armor can offer some protection against polearms, but even then, these techniques and weapons are specifically designed to defeat armor. If you must spar with polearms, choose the right training tool and only fence with someone you trust and have worked with before.
For an introduction to the differences between newton ratings for fencing masks, see this article by Keith Farrell about the difference between a “350N” fencing mask and a “1600N” fencing mask. Note that the minimum recommended newton rating for HEMA is 350.
This mask offers great protection at an affordable cost and is the one of the best starting masks for beginners.
This version of the AF Fencing Mask has integrated back of head protection and padding on the sides and top of the mask. This makes it an excellent option for beginners who want extra protection. The main disadvantages are that the extra padding causes the mask to trap more heat and can impact mobility of the head. It also makes the mask more challenging to clean.
Gorget
Destroyer Modz (top recommendation):
This is the unofficial default for the VCU HEMA club because it is small and tucks under the jacket nicely. It is affordable, accessible, low tech, and low hassle. This review written by Keith Farrell provides a more detailed critique.
PBT:
This has extra padding that can fit under the jacket for the collarbone, which is a nice feature, but depending on the jacket might not be necessary. This review by Keith Farrell offers a more detailed critique.
Easily accessible on Amazon, this is a simple and cheap option that does the job.
This gorget is articulated and fully encloses the neck. It is arguably the most complete (and expensive) neck protection on the market.
Torso
Jacket
SPES AP Light (top recommendation):
This jacket is slightly more expensive than the base jacket. What makes it special is the extra integrated padding on the ribs, sternum, and shoulders, as well as its lighter weight and wicking lining. These features make it a worthwhile investment for those who desire greater protection and comfort than is offered by the base jacket. The women’s version is specifically cut to accommodate breasts. This jacket is often used in training with other weapons and can be repurposed for polearms so you don’t have to go out and buy a new jacket; however, a spear thrust to the chest will still be painful, even with rigid chest protection.
There is a pro version that incorporates integrated rigid protection and is an excellent value.
SPES Hussar Jacket: $400.00
The 800N rating means that this jacket has more padding than its lighter counterpart. Normally, this extra bulk makes it less than ideal for other weapons, but the added protection is useful for training with polearms. Blows will still sting, and mobility is slightly restricted with all that padding, but it does help to lessen the risk of an accidental broken rib.
Chest Protector
There is no reason not to wear a chest protector, and with polearms, they are an absolute necessity. Even in the most heavily padded HEMA jackets, the addition of rigid protection will help to disperse the impact of thrusts and can prevent bruises or broken ribs.
Men’s Chest Protector: Aside from men, many women prefer this chest protector since the women-specific chest protector is a one-sized fit all that does not, in fact, fit all.
Women’s Chest Protector: There is no universal chest protector that will fit every woman. The following sources are some options for chest defense that also include protection for the ribs and are suitable for HEMA. If at all possible, try them both at a local club and use the one that fits the best. Both of these options can be measured by bra size which helps to ensure a comfortable fit. Be aware that the shape of some women’s chest protectors may cause an increased risk of blows being deflected toward the sternum.
Econoguard Women’s Chest Protector:
If it fits and feels comfortable, this chest protector will offer excellent protection to the ribs and breasts. The plastic is thin enough to flex, and it fits easily under jackets.
The Maxiguard integrates a rigid plate into a sports bra, combining excellent protection with the functionality of a sports bra.
Arms
Elbow Protection
SPES Elbow Protector (used with a jacket):
This is one of the best elbow protectors available for HEMA. Few alternatives do everything an elbow protector needs to do at this low of a price. I highly recommend finding a way to tie these to your jacket to prevent them from slipping and sliding during a fight. Conveniently, they integrate really well with the SPES jacket.
Rollerblading/hockey/lacrosse elbow protection:
Some people prefer to repurpose previously used elbow protection from hockey, lacrosse, rollerblading, or other similar sports. Unlike the SPES elbow protectors that work best with a jacket, these alternatives can be used effectively either with or without a jacket and provide excellent protection to the elbow.
Forearm protection
SPES Forearm Protectors with Integrated Elbows:
These offer great protection and are reasonably priced. Unlike many other forearm guards, they cover all sides of the arm and include elbow protection.
Destroyer Modz Forearm Protectors (top recommendation):
These are designed to be put over a jacket and protect your arms with minimal bulk. They are less protective than the SPES guards, sacrificing protection for mobility; however, they are still excellent guards. They are also appropriate for use with other weapons. Again, I recommend you find a way to attach them to your jacket so they do not slip and slide.
Gloves
SPES Heavies: (top beginner recommendation):
There is no perfect HEMA glove, but these will give you a good chance of going home with all ten fingers intact. They sacrifice mobility and dexterity for protection. Because polearms are less reliant on hand and wrist mobility, this sacrifice is less of a concern than with most other weapons. The flared cuffs work really well with the SPES jacket. Consider adding blast caps to the thumb.
Sparring Gloves (top five-fingered recommendation):
These are custom made and very lightweight. As such, they offer some of the best fit and mobility available among HEMA gloves; however, they sacrifice some protection for dexterity. They are one of the most customizable options available and are offered in a five-fingered, three-fingered hoof, or mitten style. Be aware that, as with any equipment, the resin will degrade over time and can potentially crack after years of use. Their United States distributor is HEMA Supplies.
A relative newcomer to the HEMA market, these gloves provide protection via steel plates riveted into a leather glove. They are gaining a popular following and seem to be an excellent choice for durable five-fingered protection.
Lightly padded gloves can be excellent for light drilling and solo practice. Obviously, these would do nothing to protect the hands against a polearm in sparring.
These gloves can be pre-ordered (either through Proguntlet directly if you live in Europe or through Purpleheart if you live in the US). They have the potential to revolutionize the HEMA glove market, and I am very excited for them to come out. However, at the time of this writing, they are not available to the public. A glove will not do you any good until it is on your hand; for now, it may be best to stick to one of the above recommendations.
Legs
Pants
SPES Locust Pants (top recommendation):
I love these pants because the cut allows for good mobility and because the high hip padding provides nice protection if the jacket lifts up when the wearer assumes a high guard. The knees are padded, and anchor points are provided for the SPES knee guards. The women’s pants are cut specifically to accommodate wider hips.
Men’s Pants
These are one of the best alternatives to SPES pants, also boasting an 800N rating and featuring integrated high-density foam padding at key points.
Despite the name, the skirt is co-ed and is not used strictly by female-identifying fencers. It is designed to provide additional protection to the upper thighs and hips. Because the skirt provides padding, it does not necessarily need to be paired with pants. If you do not want pants, it is a nice alternative to provide upper thigh padding and does not restrict mobility in the legs. Just be aware that the skirt closes in the back and therefore does not provide any padding to the tailbone. While the updated version is slightly more expensive then the original skirt, it features increased protection, a modular pad system, and quality buckles.
Groin Protection
Groin protection in general (search athletic cup):
This is mandatory for anyone with male genitalia and recommended for everyone else. You can find it in any major sports store or online. There are also specific models for anyone with female genitalia.
Knee Guards
SPES Knee Protector (top recommendation when paired with SPES pants):
These, like the elbow protectors, are one of the best knee guards because they do their job with the pants for a low cost. The pants have anchor points for the knees to ensure they do not go anywhere.
This is an unofficial standard of the community because it is cheap and it provides great protection. However, the buckles can fail or come undone during a fight. They are best used with the skirt or thin, non-SPES pants.
Sigmund Werndorf gives an excellent breakdown in this Measure and Weigh: Knee Pro Ultra written review.
Red Dragon Knee Guards/Motocross Guards:
The Red Dragon guards and others like them provide combined articulating knee protection and shin protection. Some people prefer the articulating knees and find the integrated shin guards convenient and protective.
Baseball knee/shin guards:
These combine knee and shin guards all in one and can be a great solution for leg protection. Buckles and straps on lesser guards can fail or come undone, but generally, the metal clips and rings on baseball guards are more durable than plastic. Look on eBay for cheaper alternatives to buying new.
Shin Guards
Harrow Probot Shin Guard (top recommendation):
These are designed to be worn under your socks and provide fantastic protection with no possibility of something flying off or moving during a fight. They are also high enough to integrate into your pants to prevent a gap between your knees and shin.
Jay Tsulis gives an in-depth review in this Measure and Weigh: Harrow Probot Shin Guard written review.
These are simple but functional. The straps tend to wear down after a while, but they provide good protection for the price.
Socks
There is no real price difference between socks for fencing and compression socks. Just as long as they are knee-length and are snug without being constricting. They are designed to fit over shin guards or under shin protection to prevent chafing. Amazon can generally ship you something in a minimum of two days. Soccer or other sport socks also work just fine.
Shoes
Shoes are a personal choice based on your foot needs, traction preferences, and style. Personally, I have noticed that fencing shoes or tennis/court shoes tend to be thin enough that you can have good tactile feedback through your feet and grippy enough that you are not in danger of slipping. Some people find they prefer wrestling shoes or minimalist footwear. Always try to buy your shoes in person and test them at the store with footwork. Make sure if they rise up to support the ankle that you can still perform lunges and that the shoes do not limit your range of motion.
Kit Maintenance
Once you have bought all your kit, it is important to maintain it:
Keith Farrell describes how to wash a fencing mask, either by hand or in the dishwasher.
Keith Farrell also wrote a wonderful article about how to wash a SPES Jacket.
Notes About Kit
Polearms are usually a secondary area of study that fencers get into after entering HEMA through longsword, rapier, saber, or a different and more accessible weapon. As such, practitioners usually repurpose gear they already have rather than go out and buy new kit just for training with polearms.
The order in which you buy pieces of kit is up to you. Generally, people buy a mask first (so they do not have to use other people’s sweaty masks), then gloves, a gorget, then finally a jacket. Mask, gloves, gorget, and groin protection should be the first things you buy. Do not forget groin protection.
Keith Farrell weighs in on a sensible progression for buying longsword equipment.
If you are attending a club, make it a point to follow their gear guidelines and ask around for gear recommendations. If you see a weapon or a piece of kit that you are interested in, ask to try it out and get their feedback about the piece.
Before competing in any tournament, make sure your kit is compliant with their rules and safety guidelines. Be aware that some tournaments may have specific newton requirements for masks or other pieces of kit, so always read the rules before signing up.
I personally like to have as much rigid protection integrated into jackets or pants as possible. Not only does this cut down on the time it takes to put it all on, but it also ensures everything stays in place during a fight. I have found that “free-floating” protection tends to be more trouble than it is worth. You do not want to have to fight your gear and your opponent at the same time.
There is such a thing as being overprotected, even with polearms. If you cannot feel hits, then you will not care about being hit. That will lead you to train recklessly and to form suicidal behaviors, which defeats the point of what we are trying to learn. Your kit should prevent you from getting hurt, but it should not take away from the experience of fearing getting hit. There is an important difference between the two.
This stuff is expensive, and it is okay if you cannot buy it all at once. It took me four years to build my full steel kit. Take your time and invest in quality, even if it is expensive, because it will serve you better in the long run. For a nice discount, try placing group orders with other members of your club.
Train in the full kit as much as possible; get used to it, and make it a second skin. Eventually, if you close your eyes, you should not be able to tell that you are wearing it because you are so used to the weight of it.
I have found that wearing a skin-tight base layer that is designed for cooling has made an incredible dent in the overheating problem. Available equipment has gotten better, and wicking jackets are a godsend, but you will still sweat a lot. Having wicking leggings, shirts, and headbands (depending on your preferences) helps to manage the sweat and accelerates the cooling process if you unzip your jacket between bouts. I have used rashguards in the past. For the best search results, use key phrases like “rashguard”, “cooling”, or “moisture wicking” for shirts, leggings, and headbands.
Once you are fully kitted up, there should be no skin showing. Not only does this protect your skin from abrasions either from the mat or rough weapon edges, but it also provides a wicking base layer to help manage heat and sweat.
For safety’s sake, don’t try to spar in less than full kit, and make sure you have rigid elbow and knee protection. As always when sparring, be aware that a good hit to the head, even with a rubber-headed polearm, can put someone in the hospital.
Weapons
Quarterstaff
Purpleheart Staff, Laminated Hickory:
Purpleheart’s specialty is staffs, and their quality reflects this. In general, you want to size a quarterstaff so that it is just as tall as or a little bit taller than you are. In general, six feet is a good length to work with. This staff is six feet long and 1.25" in diameter. It is made of two layers of impact grade hickory laminated together and finished with at least two coats of a boiled linseed/mineral spirits mixture. They are extremely durable and should serve you for a long time. In addition to being excellent quarterstaffs, they are are also some of the best judging sticks available. Make sure when you get one to also get a rubber boot to protect one or both ends.
Spear
This is a preassembled spear with a 6’ shaft, rubber foot, and 1 1/4” spearhead. This is a good starting tool to get into spear sparring. Fencers should always be careful when sparring with polearms and especially careful when trusting with a spear. While the rubber head bends, the shaft has very little flex and can direct a lot of force into your sparring partner’s chest or mask.
While it is technically a partisan head, this works very well for spear sparring. The head has enough length and the shaft is thin enough that thrusts aren’t as likely to cause serious damage. It is also a suitable tool for partisan practice. It is designed to be used with the 1-1/8" Round Two-Layered Staff or the 1-1/16" Octagon Shaft. The octagon shaft feels better in the hands and has marginally more flex than the rounded staff, but the edges can take minor damage if repeatedly struck. Don’t forget the rubber boot.
Black Fencer Synthetic Spearhead:
Currently the only synthetic spearhead in HEMA, this is an excellent way to reduce the risk of thrusting with a spear in sparring. The blade flexes, and the steel socket is very durable. The distributor for Black Fencer products in the United States is South Coast Swords. The spear socket is 30mm and can be fitted with a 29mm hickory shaft from Purpleheart. Don’t forget the rubber boot.
Halberd
This is a standard halberd trainer in HEMA. It is suitable for controlled sparring in full kit and the perfect way to explore halberd techniques. I’ve also found that these make very good judging sticks because they can be used to can tap fighters on the mask to break up a bout, and it’s much more gentle than a spear would be. I recommend selecting the option to buy them with the shaft (at additional cost) so that both parts come together and are already assembled.
Currently the only synthetic halberd in HEMA, this model is nailed to the shaft such that it will stay on better during binding, unlike the Purpleheart model which is held on by friction. However, the synthetic nylon, especially in the ax and fluke, is much less forgiving then Purpleheart’s rubber version and should be used with care. The socket is 30mm and can be fitted with a 29mm hickory shaft from Purpleheart. Don’t forget the rubber boot.
Polehammer
This is a definitive polehammer trainer for HEMA. The hammer is made of rubber and can absorb some of the force of impact. The speartip on the head enables thrusts, and the rondel disk protects the hands.
Equipment Maintenance
While Purpleheart shafts are extremely well constructed and the laminated staves are well protected from rot or damage, it is still important to periodically care for your training tools. Polearm heads are very durable and typically do not require maintenance or upkeep. The staff should be cared for if the wood has dried out, acquired rough patches, or been severely dented.
If the surface of the staff has developed any rough patches or raised grain, lightly sand it with 220 grit sandpaper until it is smooth again.
After sanding is complete, apply a light coat of boiled linseed oil. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying times and storage recommendations.
Written by Nicholas Allen, founder and former head instructor of the VCU HEMA club.
Edited by Kiana Shurkin, xKDF
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