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Greece.

I. Homeric Times. Stage of civilization, higher barbarism—life of men, husbandry, cattle-raising, fighting; life of women, care of household, spinning and weaving, care, storage and preparation of food.

1. Flesh food.

a. Cattle, sheep, goats, swine.

b. Roasted on spits over flame of fire—mention of spits large enough to support carcass of an ox, turned by hand.

c. Fat of animals and marrow of bones esteemed delicacies.

d. Fish held in contempt, eaten only when nothing else was obtainable; fishing by nets, harpoons, hooks mentioned.

e. Homeric heroes did their own cooking—skill of several in special fields mentioned.

2. Vegetables and grains.

a. Bread stuffs—barley, meal, and wheaten flour, baked into loaves, without leaven.

b. Fruits—grapes, figs.

3. Beverages.

a. Wine only drink, mixed with water.

b. Milk not esteemed—Polyphemus, type of savage, only user.

c. Honey sometimes mixed with wine for sweetening.

4. Butter unknown, cheese used freely, esteemed highly.

5. Three meals in Homer :

a. Breakfast.

b. Dinner—hot meal, served in middle of day.

c. Supper—light, simple repast.

  1. Feasts described at great length, with well-defined ceremonial observances: a. Feast at funeral of Patroclus.

b. Provisioning of boat for Telemachus.

c. Provisioning of raft by Calypso.

d. Feast at home of Nestor.

e. Feast at home of Menelaus.

f. Feast at home of Alcinous.

g. Feast at home of Odysseus,

h. Meal at swineherd's hut.

II. Post-Homeric Period, three main centres :

8. Sparta, noted for frugality.

a. Public table for men; common contributions to general stock; levy of certain amount per diem.

b. Light meat diet; staples, barley meal, cheese, black broth, dried figs, and dates; moderate use of wine.

9. Athens, frugal also—allowance of about fifty cents a day for four adults considered extravagant.

a. Meat, usually obtained from sacrifices or public festivities. Whole meat diet regarded as a hardship. Sausage and fish esteemed.

b. Vegetables, cereals, fruits cultivated extensively—beans and peas, spinach, cabbage, lettuce, radishes, onions, leeks, turnips; pease porridge staple in diet. Figs, olives, raisin and wine grapes, apples, pears, quinces, pomegranates; nuts—walnuts, chestnuts, almonds; grain—wheat, millet, barley, spelt; leavened bread used freely. Athenians prided themselves on fancy baking, sesame and poppy seeds used as flavor. Standard weights of loaves. Little cake used. Eggs sparingly used. Honey for sweetening entirely.

c. Wine only beverage, many varieties. Always mixed with water, usually "half and half." Over-indulgence condemned.

d. Cheese and oil substitutes for butter in cooking; smoked and dried fish used as relish; oyster considered delicacy. Word "ostracise" derived from this.

10. Ionia, home of luxurious livers. Sybaris noted for its refinements and love of dainty cookery. Sumptuary laws enacted to check these extravagances. Indulgence in wine freer than in Sparta and Athens.

III. Later Period—height of Athenian supremacy. Marked by great luxury and profusion of food.

  1. Seven sages of kitchen, each famed for production of some one dish or sauce.

2. 470 B.C. Cooking society awarded prize to one who produced most excellent dish.

3. Serious study of dietetics as well as art of cookery.

4. Rarity of food and difficulty of securing it more considered than flavor of article itself;period of importation from other and distant countries.

7. Influence of Egypt and Babylonia. Song-birds, game-birds, domestic fowl highly esteemed, also fish, especially deep-sea fish.

8. Cultivation of fruit-trees—study of horticulture, specialization in grafting fruits. Many kinds of wine made; delicate flavor and heady quality appreciated.

IV. Greek Service at Table.

1. Homeric times.

a. Rude board on trestles.

b. Thronos, or chair with back and arms, for important persons, stools for common people.

c. Many vessels, especially for drink, but no knives or forks at table. Meat cooked so that it fell to pieces, or else cut by steward as it was passed.

d. Ceremonial observances, as libation, honoring of guest, showing appreciation of song or story by gift of choice morsels, etc.

2. Later times.

a. Elaborate tables, marble, wood, bronze, inlay, etc.

b. Guests reclined on couches, piled with cushions; used right hand only in eating.

c. No forks, fingers used entirely. Forks used only for kitchen serving.

d. Cup-bearer and attendants kept wine cups filled. Tables changed at end of courses.

e. Women of family not present at feasts; music, juggling, dancing by hired female entertainers.

f. Symposia at end of meal, learned or polite discussions calling out wit and thought of company.

Barrows, Anna, and Bertha E. Shapleigh. Outline on the History of Cookery. Teacher's College, Columbia University, 1915.

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